https://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=PacerMacGraw&feedformat=atomWesterly-Wiki - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T07:21:57ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.31.0https://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=Talk:Main_Page&diff=7398Talk:Main Page2020-08-11T09:12:56Z<p>PacerMacGraw: /* Headlining Westerly Pageant */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Proposal for Contents Lists==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Guiding principles for Pages:<br />
<br />
# Always make a page if you want a page, don't wait until there is a good structure to hang it on<br />
# Every page should (ideally) be reachable by browsing from the main page in 4 clicks or less<br />
# If the structure starts looking messy, change it (with consultation), don't wait for major clean-ups.<br />
# Try not to make too many levels. Only include a heading or page when there's is something in it. Empty pages are very frustrating.<br />
:Yes, like it. [[User:Flora1871|DJJ]] 10:38, 25 November 2011 (UTC)<br />
By the way - I like "other" better than "Misc" but I think we are getting a bit messy on the front page. "Westerly Yachts" seems a strange heading for something about the company and is confusing compared to "Westerly Classes". I'll have a think. [[User:Julian|Julian]] 09:17, 25 November 2011 (UTC)<br />
<br />
<br />
===At the article level sections could be:=== <br />
<br />
:1 to n article specific sections. For example very generally before, during and after sections.<br />
<br />
:Resources Section – containing web links to suppliers of materials or services<br />
<br />
:References Section – containing cross reference to WOA Journal issues and Magazine articles<br />
<br />
This should generate a table of contents if the article structure demands it.<br />
<br />
See examples of both above set up under Centaur<br />
<br />
== Going Live ==<br />
<br />
New Sections<br />
<br />
Added a header to collect material about lif in the Westerly Yard - "Westerly Yard Scrapbook". Subject was suggested to me by a Boatline member.<br />
Could provide some fascinating glimpses of the Westerly Yard and maybe some unique pictures.<br />
<br />
Also suggest we add a template for a picture gallery so we can collect and display more pictures about each class.<br />
[[User:Flora1871|DJJ]] 14:43, 8 December 2011 (UTC)</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=File:IMG_20160924_115039897_HDR.jpg&diff=7397File:IMG 20160924 115039897 HDR.jpg2020-08-11T09:09:55Z<p>PacerMacGraw: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=Talk:Main_Page&diff=7396Talk:Main Page2020-08-11T08:41:58Z<p>PacerMacGraw: /* Headlining Westerly Pageant */ new section</p>
<hr />
<div>==Proposal for Contents Lists==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Guiding principles for Pages:<br />
<br />
# Always make a page if you want a page, don't wait until there is a good structure to hang it on<br />
# Every page should (ideally) be reachable by browsing from the main page in 4 clicks or less<br />
# If the structure starts looking messy, change it (with consultation), don't wait for major clean-ups.<br />
# Try not to make too many levels. Only include a heading or page when there's is something in it. Empty pages are very frustrating.<br />
:Yes, like it. [[User:Flora1871|DJJ]] 10:38, 25 November 2011 (UTC)<br />
By the way - I like "other" better than "Misc" but I think we are getting a bit messy on the front page. "Westerly Yachts" seems a strange heading for something about the company and is confusing compared to "Westerly Classes". I'll have a think. [[User:Julian|Julian]] 09:17, 25 November 2011 (UTC)<br />
<br />
<br />
===At the article level sections could be:=== <br />
<br />
:1 to n article specific sections. For example very generally before, during and after sections.<br />
<br />
:Resources Section – containing web links to suppliers of materials or services<br />
<br />
:References Section – containing cross reference to WOA Journal issues and Magazine articles<br />
<br />
This should generate a table of contents if the article structure demands it.<br />
<br />
See examples of both above set up under Centaur<br />
<br />
== Going Live ==<br />
<br />
New Sections<br />
<br />
Added a header to collect material about lif in the Westerly Yard - "Westerly Yard Scrapbook". Subject was suggested to me by a Boatline member.<br />
Could provide some fascinating glimpses of the Westerly Yard and maybe some unique pictures.<br />
<br />
Also suggest we add a template for a picture gallery so we can collect and display more pictures about each class.<br />
[[User:Flora1871|DJJ]] 14:43, 8 December 2011 (UTC)<br />
<br />
== Headlining Westerly Pageant ==<br />
<br />
So here we were with the headlining hanging round our ears on my Westerly Pageant.<br />
<br />
This is normal on a boat I’m told especially a fifty year old Westerly that has never been refurbished.<br />
<br />
Headlining in the front cabin had already been removed and revealed the ceiling to be a dirty brown mess of old glue and the lumps and bumps of the fibreglass woven inner skin and various bolts holding on chain plates and the like.<br />
<br />
Knowing what was coming when the saloon cabin lining was removed and not wanting to spend hours scraping and sanding old glue (unless the boat could be turned upside down so I worked on what would effectively be the floor) the thinking cap went on.<br />
<br />
After removal of the old lining which shed amazing amounts of black powdery ex-foam that had lost adhesion to the vinyl lining causing the ceiling covering to give way. (Mask alert!) The shape of the cabin roof turned out to be not too complicated. True there are two areas where compound curves make life difficult but over all I could see that with a suitably bendy wood, the interior could be transformed into a cosy space which could include downlighters and space for hidden wiring.<br />
<br />
I’ve used bendy ply before but never to the extent of making it go round almost ninety degree curves where I wanted the cabin sides in one piece like the original.<br />
<br />
<br />
I’ve steamed a lot of Oak and Ash in another life making furniture but that was always long but small section timber like 45mm x 120mm, quite small enough to go in a steam box. An eight by four sheet of ply would be a different scale altogether.<br />
So I set about trialling localised steam application (LSA) using a wallpaper steamer. They produce copious amounts of steam but are a bit too localised. Not only would one have to walk up and down the ply but the pad would heat too big an area. What was need was something that would steam the whole length of ply but only in the place needing bending.<br />
<br />
Plastic pipe with holes all along seemed the solution and was trialled on a small rectangle of the 5mm bendy ply. The ply without steam has a minimum radius of 320mm, what was needed was effectively a radius of 50mm.<br />
<br />
<br />
Three short pieces of pipe joined with a Y piece to the steamer outlet pipe. The longer two pipes having holes one inch apart all the way along and a bung in the end to force the steam out of the holes.<br />
<br />
The two pipes I placed either side of the ply, covered it all in the best quality T towels and steamed for ten minutes.<br />
<br />
When ready place in the trusty workmate and try bending!<br />
<br />
<br />
The piece pushed over easily and was clamped down round and old piece of kitchen worktop nosing.<br />
<br />
When dry the ply set in it’s new shape with easily enough bend to go round the bottom of the cabin sides with no cracking or splintering.<br />
<br />
<br />
So how to measure?<br />
<br />
The decision about how many pieces of ply to use was ultimately made by the dimensions of the cabin. <br />
<br />
Length was no problem but the sides from under the turn to the middle of the cabin roof was more than a sheet wide and fitting a huge bit of wobbly ply in only two bits didn’t appeal anyway.<br />
<br />
So each side was measured and the ply cut and marked where the bend would come when steamed up. <br />
<br />
The workmate had been OK on a small length but we needed nearly eight feet of bending so set about fashioning two 4x3’s, one for each side of the ply. The bend line level with the top.<br />
<br />
<br />
Two long pipes replaced the test ones and looked too long for one steamer so a borrowed one connected to the other end of the pipes so steam could blow down from both ends.<br />
<br />
<br />
The holes in the pipes pointed toward the ply from both sides and were held in place by lightly held ‘G’ cramps and the whole lot covered in towels to contain heat of the steam and try to prevent water staining from steam running down the ply.<br />
<br />
<br />
Twenty minutes steaming and the ply felt ready to bend, we used an old bit of skirting the right length to put even pressure on the bend line.<br />
<br />
Once both side were bent they were taken to the boat to fit.<br />
<br />
Lots of planing later and having to increase the gap between the cupboard tops and the hull the first side went in.<br />
<br />
Followed by the second.<br />
<br />
The next stage: Where do the window holes go?<br />
<br />
We made paper templates the same size and shape as the bent ply, taped them up against the windows and pressure marked the window positions, basically where the glass is as decided to make window frames to cover the aluminium windows and seal the ply agains the frames using rubber self adhesive foam strip and screws into the inner frame of each window; holding on the side panel and frames in one go.<br />
All the ply was insulated with anti damp, graphite backed foam after being coated in epoxy to strengthen, waterproof and help hold its shape.<br />
<br />
<br />
And the windows cut out.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Once the side were up, the cabin roof was sketched out, measured and cut to size.<br />
Then more bending trimming and fitting.<br />
<br />
<br />
Added holes for the downlighters and cutout for the hatch opening.<br />
<br />
I opted for invisible fixings made by Big Hat, called “Poppets” These are a two part push fit, one glued to the substrate to be held up the other to the ceiling, they are all glued in place after only needing to scrape a small area for the epoxy to bond. Then clipped together and covered in epoxy and the ceiling panels pushed up against the plastic part of the poppet, so no lining up.<br />
<br />
Note the Utile covering board between the side panel and ceiling.<br />
<br />
The outer edge of the ply is dropped into a groove in the covering board. This holds the top edge of the side panel and the outer edge of the ceiling panel and covers the join.<br />
<br />
The gaps the Poppets create (5mm) allows for the insulation and a small air gap which keeps the cabin cool in hot and warm in cold weather.<br />
<br />
In hindsight I should have used more Poppets.<br />
<br />
The panels were wedge up against the fixings using pine 2x1 poles.<br />
<br />
Covering strips being added along with a centre covering held up with more “Poppets” and a hand carved piece where the compound curve made life too interesting.<br />
<br />
All in all headroom is only reduced by around 12mm which is still standing headroom in my case (5’ 10 1/2”) and it’s a job that unless the boat sinks (and then it doesn’t matter) will never need doing again. <br />
<br />
If required it could be changed with a coat of paint.</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=Talk:Electric_Boat&diff=6139Talk:Electric Boat2019-03-11T19:35:52Z<p>PacerMacGraw: Created page with "Hi, Do you have some more details please? Which motor, where you obtained it , type of batteries etc Thanks Patrick"</p>
<hr />
<div>Hi, Do you have some more details please?<br />
<br />
Which motor, where you obtained it , type of batteries etc<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
<br />
Patrick</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=Bi-fold_doors_on_Pageant&diff=6126Bi-fold doors on Pageant2019-03-06T14:24:01Z<p>PacerMacGraw: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Bi-fold doors on Pageant ==<br />
<br />
One of the jobs that I was keen to get done was to replace the tired washboards on my Westerly Pageant with bifold doors.<br />
<br />
[[File:Washboards.png | 500px]]<br />
<br />
They weren’t leaking but going in and out when the weather is wet the hatch has to be opened and as they slide up and the wood swells pushing up from inside they would often stick. Also the original ventilator was missing, replaced by gaffer tape.<br />
<br />
When inside with the washboards in place and the hatch slid closed, ventilating the boat and letting some light in would mean sliding the hatch back letting any rain into the main cabin. Plexi glass is an option but need storage and they do get scratched then there is storage of washboards when not in the hatchway. All in all not optimum.<br />
<br />
I decided to make the new doors out of 15mm marine ply with Utile facings and make them fit within the existing sliders as the hatch itself only slides so far and is designed to minimise water entry while the washboards are in situ.<br />
<br />
Also without adding extra depth to the outside Teak surround the hinges would have to be face mounted so with the doors inside the slide area if the doors are locked even if the hinges are removed the doors cannot be opened.<br />
<br />
Using the old washboards as a template I cut out a thin ply shape then did a final fit before committing the 15mm marine ply to the saw. Three vertical lines to give four sections were cut using a bandsaw<br />
<br />
<br />
Then the hinges fitted on the inside to test the fit.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsidePlain.png | 500px]]<br />
<br />
In this image the outside rain stoppers are in place covering the joins which are cut on a 35% angle away from the direction or water ingress and the barrel locks are in place which fix into the sliding canopy. These can be operated from outside and inside.<br />
<br />
I've tried to cover all the angles in the most elegant way and if there is existing infrastructure, use this as much as possible where it benefits the finished project.<br />
<br />
Next the covering strips of Utile where added and the whole thing given a sealing coat of epoxy resin and five coats of exterior varnish.<br />
<br />
Ventilators of stainless steel with a wire mesh insert to stop insects where added along with internal bottom bolts. <br />
<br />
You can probably see the small indentations added to accommodate the ventilator handles and bolt sliders so the doors would fold almost flat.<br />
<br />
Sometimes working with existing constraints ( the thickness of the marine ply having to match the original wash board sliders) these compromises are required.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsideFinished.png | 500px]]<br />
<br />
The doors can be opened nearly all the way with the canopy in place, just as I’d hoped.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsExternalOpenedFinished.png | 500px]]<br />
<br />
And the finished doors haven’t let a drop of rain in even during what seemed like our own tropical rain storms that overwhelmed our gutters at home. <br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsExternalClosedFinished.png | 500px]]<br />
<br />
So next: How to steam bend a new ceiling.</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=Pageant_23&diff=6125Pageant 232019-03-06T14:23:03Z<p>PacerMacGraw: /* Upgrades and Enhancements */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Introduction==<br />
<br />
<br />
Using the classic Laurent Giles cod's head bow these boats are instantly recognizable as being a Westerly yacht. Has all the Westerly characteristics, good build quality, solid, safe and reliable. Considered part of the same group of yachts as the [[Jouster]], [[Warwick]], Westerly 21 ([[W21]]), and Pageant.<br />
<br />
After the success of the Centaur, Laurent Giles was asked to produce designs for a series of smaller yachts. All of them a very similar to the Centaur but the Pageant 23 and the Kendal are particularly close sisters to the Centaur.<br />
<br />
The [[Kendal]] is the fin keeled version of the Pageant, but only 6 were sold.<br />
<br />
== Statistics ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="border-collapse: collapse; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: #000"<br />
|-<br />
|Designer:|| Laurent Giles ||rowspan="21"| [[File:pageant_copahu-2.jpg|500px|More Westerly pictures can be found on the Westerly Owners Web site]]<br />
<br />
|-<br />
|Keel:|| Twin <br />
|-<br />
|Keel Width: || Max to outer edge of keels= 79 3/4”.<br />
Length at base= 56 1/2”<br />
The leading edge of my keels is rounded so I put a straight edge on the leading edge to extend it. <br />
Also at 4” up from base the keels are 2 1/2” longer. <br />
|-<br />
|Cockpit:|| Aft <br />
|-<br />
|LOA (feet):||23' 1" <br />
|-<br />
|LWL (feet):|| 19' 0" <br />
|-<br />
|Beam (feet):|| 8' 0" <br />
|-<br />
|Draft (feet):|| 2' 10" <br />
|-<br />
|Displacement (lb):|| 4,300 <br />
|-<br />
|Ballast (lb):|| 2,100 <br />
|-<br />
|Berths:|| 4 - 5<br />
|-<br />
|Heads:|| 1 <br />
|-<br />
|Rig: ||Sloop<br />
|-<br />
|Fuel (ltr):|| <br />
|-<br />
|Main (sq. feet):|| 130 <br />
|-<br />
|No. 1 Genoa (sq. feet):||195 <br />
|-<br />
|No 1 Jib (sq. feet):|| 106 <br />
|-<br />
|Sail ID:|| P<br />
|-<br />
|Water (ltr):|| <br />
|-<br />
|Built:|| 1970 - 1979 <br />
|-<br />
|Number Built:|| 551<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Westerly Pageant Brochure here: [[Westerly Brochures]]<br />
<br />
== Definitive Guide==<br />
[[The Warwick, Westerly 21 and Pageant]]<br />
<br />
==[[Upgrades and Enhancements]]==<br />
<br />
[[Bi-fold doors on Pageant]]<br />
<br />
== Pageant Keel Repairs ==<br />
<br />
Before Repairs<br />
<br />
[[File:Pagent_Keel_1.jpg |710px|center|Port Keel detached by broadside grounding on a slipway]]<br />
<br />
The remains of the keel stub<br />
<br />
[[File:Pagent2.jpg |710px|center|Port Keel detached by broadside grounding on a slipway]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Watch this space for after repair pictures!!<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
<br />
[http://www.laurentgilesarchive.com/yacht-detail?id_no=604 Laurent Giles Archive - Plans for the Pageant]<br />
<br />
[[Main Page|Back to Main Page]]</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=User:PacerMacGraw&diff=6124User:PacerMacGraw2019-03-06T14:15:48Z<p>PacerMacGraw: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Bi-fold doors on Pageant ==<br />
<br />
One of the jobs that I was keen to get done was to replace the tired washboards on my Westerly Pageant with bifold doors.<br />
<br />
[[File:Washboards.png | 500px]]<br />
<br />
They weren’t leaking but going in and out when the weather is wet the hatch has to be opened and as they slide up and the wood swells pushing up from inside they would often stick. Also the original ventilator was missing, replaced by gaffer tape.<br />
<br />
When inside with the washboards in place and the hatch slid closed, ventilating the boat and letting some light in would mean sliding the hatch back letting any rain into the main cabin. Plexi glass is an option but need storage and they do get scratched then there is storage of washboards when not in the hatchway. All in all not optimum.<br />
<br />
I decided to make the new doors out of 15mm marine ply with Utile facings and make them fit within the existing sliders as the hatch itself only slides so far and is designed to minimise water entry while the washboards are in situ.<br />
<br />
Also without adding extra depth to the outside Teak surround the hinges would have to be face mounted so with the doors inside the slide area if the doors are locked even if the hinges are removed the doors cannot be opened.<br />
<br />
Using the old washboards as a template I cut out a thin ply shape then did a final fit before committing the 15mm marine ply to the saw. Three vertical lines to give four sections were cut using a bandsaw<br />
<br />
<br />
Then the hinges fitted on the inside to test the fit.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsidePlain.png | 500px]]<br />
<br />
In this image the outside rain stoppers are in place covering the joins which are cut on a 35% angle away from the direction or water ingress and the barrel locks are in place which fix into the sliding canopy. These can be operated from outside and inside.<br />
<br />
I've tried to cover all the angles in the most elegant way and if there is existing infrastructure, use this as much as possible where it benefits the finished project.<br />
<br />
Next the covering strips of Utile where added and the whole thing given a sealing coat of epoxy resin and five coats of exterior varnish.<br />
<br />
Ventilators of stainless steel with a wire mesh insert to stop insects where added along with internal bottom bolts. <br />
<br />
You can probably see the small indentations added to accommodate the ventilator handles and bolt sliders so the doors would fold almost flat.<br />
<br />
Sometimes working with existing constraints ( the thickness of the marine ply having to match the original wash board sliders) these compromises are required.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsideFinished.png | 500px]]<br />
<br />
The doors can be opened nearly all the way with the canopy in place, just as I’d hoped.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsExternalOpenedFinished.png | 500px]]<br />
<br />
And the finished doors haven’t let a drop of rain in even during what seemed like our own tropical rain storms that overwhelmed our gutters at home. <br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsExternalClosedFinished.png | 500px]]<br />
<br />
So next: How to steam bend a new ceiling.</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=User:PacerMacGraw&diff=6123User:PacerMacGraw2019-03-06T14:14:38Z<p>PacerMacGraw: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Bi-fold doors on Pageant ==<br />
<br />
One of the jobs that I was keen to get done was to replace the tired washboards on my Westerly Pageant with bifold doors.<br />
<br />
[[File:Washboards.png]]<br />
<br />
They weren’t leaking but going in and out when the weather is wet the hatch has to be opened and as they slide up and the wood swells pushing up from inside they would often stick. Also the original ventilator was missing, replaced by gaffer tape.<br />
<br />
When inside with the washboards in place and the hatch slid closed, ventilating the boat and letting some light in would mean sliding the hatch back letting any rain into the main cabin. Plexi glass is an option but need storage and they do get scratched then there is storage of washboards when not in the hatchway. All in all not optimum.<br />
<br />
I decided to make the new doors out of 15mm marine ply with Utile facings and make them fit within the existing sliders as the hatch itself only slides so far and is designed to minimise water entry while the washboards are in situ.<br />
<br />
Also without adding extra depth to the outside Teak surround the hinges would have to be face mounted so with the doors inside the slide area if the doors are locked even if the hinges are removed the doors cannot be opened.<br />
<br />
Using the old washboards as a template I cut out a thin ply shape then did a final fit before committing the 15mm marine ply to the saw. Three vertical lines to give four sections were cut using a bandsaw<br />
<br />
<br />
Then the hinges fitted on the inside to test the fit.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsidePlain.png | 500px]]<br />
<br />
In this image the outside rain stoppers are in place covering the joins which are cut on a 35% angle away from the direction or water ingress and the barrel locks are in place which fix into the sliding canopy. These can be operated from outside and inside.<br />
<br />
I've tried to cover all the angles in the most elegant way and if there is existing infrastructure, use this as much as possible where it benefits the finished project.<br />
<br />
Next the covering strips of Utile where added and the whole thing given a sealing coat of epoxy resin and five coats of exterior varnish.<br />
<br />
Ventilators of stainless steel with a wire mesh insert to stop insects where added along with internal bottom bolts. <br />
<br />
You can probably see the small indentations added to accommodate the ventilator handles and bolt sliders so the doors would fold almost flat.<br />
<br />
Sometimes working with existing constraints ( the thickness of the marine ply having to match the original wash board sliders) these compromises are required.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsideFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
The doors can be opened nearly all the way with the canopy in place, just as I’d hoped.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsExternalOpenedFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
And the finished doors haven’t let a drop of rain in even during what seemed like our own tropical rain storms that overwhelmed our gutters at home. <br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsExternalClosedFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
So next: How to steam bend a new ceiling.</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=Bi-fold_doors_on_Pageant&diff=6122Bi-fold doors on Pageant2019-03-06T14:07:04Z<p>PacerMacGraw: Created page with "== Bi-fold doors on Pageant == One of the jobs that I was keen to get done was to replace the tired washboards on my Westerly Pageant with bifold doors. File:Washboards.pn..."</p>
<hr />
<div>== Bi-fold doors on Pageant ==<br />
<br />
One of the jobs that I was keen to get done was to replace the tired washboards on my Westerly Pageant with bifold doors.<br />
<br />
[[File:Washboards.png]]<br />
<br />
They weren’t leaking but going in and out when the weather is wet the hatch has to be opened and as they slide up and the wood swells pushing up from inside they would often stick. Also the original ventilator was missing, replaced by gaffer tape.<br />
<br />
When inside with the washboards in place and the hatch slid closed, ventilating the boat and letting some light in would mean sliding the hatch back letting any rain into the main cabin. Plexi glass is an option but need storage and they do get scratched then there is storage of washboards when not in the hatchway. All in all not optimum.<br />
<br />
I decided to make the new doors out of 15mm marine ply with Utile facings and make them fit within the existing sliders as the hatch itself only slides so far and is designed to minimise water entry while the washboards are in situ.<br />
<br />
Also without adding extra depth to the outside Teak surround the hinges would have to be face mounted so with the doors inside the slide area if the doors are locked even if the hinges are removed the doors cannot be opened.<br />
<br />
Using the old washboards as a template I cut out a thin ply shape then did a final fit before committing the 15mm marine ply to the saw. Three vertical lines to give four sections were cut using a bandsaw<br />
<br />
<br />
Then the hinges fitted on the inside to test the fit.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsidePlain.png]]<br />
<br />
In this image the outside rain stoppers are in place covering the joins which are cut on a 35% angle away from the direction or water ingress and the barrel locks are in place which fix into the sliding canopy. These can be operated from outside and inside.<br />
<br />
I've tried to cover all the angles in the most elegant way and if there is existing infrastructure, use this as much as possible where it benefits the finished project.<br />
<br />
Next the covering strips of Utile where added and the whole thing given a sealing coat of epoxy resin and five coats of exterior varnish.<br />
<br />
Ventilators of stainless steel with a wire mesh insert to stop insects where added along with internal bottom bolts. <br />
<br />
You can probably see the small indentations added to accommodate the ventilator handles and bolt sliders so the doors would fold almost flat.<br />
<br />
Sometimes working with existing constraints ( the thickness of the marine ply having to match the original wash board sliders) these compromises are required.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsideFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
The doors can be opened nearly all the way with the canopy in place, just as I’d hoped.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsExternalOpenedFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
And the finished doors haven’t let a drop of rain in even during what seemed like our own tropical rain storms that overwhelmed our gutters at home. <br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsExternalClosedFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
So next: How to steam bend a new ceiling.</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=6121Main Page2019-03-06T14:06:03Z<p>PacerMacGraw: /* What's New on the Wiki */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Introduction ==<br />
Welcome to the Westerly Wiki sponsored by the Westerly Owners Association. Our aim is to make the WesterlyWiki the prime source of technical information about Westerly Yachts. The Wiki is continuously under construction so you will find many empty pages and as this is a Wiki you are invited to help to fill them. The Wiki is an open (public) resource and anyone may contribute material or correct existing entries (see Guidance for Contributors below). However you do need to register your email address (using real names please) and log in to contribute - anonymous access is not supported. <br />
<br />
==Request an Account?==<br />
<br />
You don't need an account to view the Wiki. Just Browse through it like any other web site. If you would like to edit or add to the Wiki you will need an account.<br />
<br />
'''To request an account please email the sysops at westerlywiki@westerly-owners.co.uk''' <br />
<br />
Tell us the user name you would like to use and state briefly your interest/connection with Westerly yachts. We will create the account and email you back with your password. This is a manual process because our automated account creation option was repeatedly used in spamming attacks.<br />
<br />
<br />
==What's New on the Wiki==<br />
<br />
March 2019 Bi-fold doors on Pageant [[Bi-fold doors on Pageant]]<br />
<br />
March 2019 Corsair Linear Drive AutoPilot [[Corsair_Maintenance_and_Repair#Linear_Drive_Autopilot]]<br />
<br />
February 2019 Centaur Rudder Bearings [[Centaur Rudder bearings]]<br />
<br />
January 2019 How much antifoul do you need [[Antifoul Quantities]]<br />
<br />
November 2018 Fitting a Wind Generator on a Mizzen Mast [[Fitting a Wind Generator on a Solway]]<br />
<br />
November 2018 Removing Keel son a Berwick [[Removing Keels on a Berwick]]<br />
<br />
November 2018 Re-bedding keels article by Mike Crummy (now with pictures). Work done on a Renown but generally applicable [[Talk:Re bedding Keels]]<br />
<br />
November 2018 What Varnish Did Westerly use [[Varnish]]<br />
<br />
October 2018 Solway Rudder Bearing Replacement [[Replacing Solway Rudder Bearing]]<br />
<br />
October 2018 Descaling an Engine [[descaling an Engine]]<br />
<br />
October 2081 2015 Discus/W33 Updates and more pictures [[Rudder Bearing Replacement]]<br />
<br />
August 2018 Electric boat Conversion [[Electric Boat]]<br />
<br />
April 2018 W33 Screen Replacement [[W33 Screen Replacement]]<br />
<br />
April 2018 Whitlock cable steering on Discus or W33 [[Steering_Quadrant,_conduit_and_cable_replacement]]<br />
<br />
March 2018 Cheap Exhaust Manifold [[DV10/20 Exhaust Elbow]]<br />
<br />
January 2018 3D printing [[3D Printing - Various Parts]]<br />
<br />
January 2016 Griffon repairs / cutless bearing / Chain plate repair. [http://www.fairfieldhouse.net]<br />
<br />
January 2016 Westerly Yahoo Group contribution on removing Fulmar Fuel Tank [[Fulmar_Maintenance_and_Repair]]<br />
<br />
January 2016 Make your Hatch slide easily without messy black grease [[Hatch Slides]]<br />
<br />
==The Westerly Companies==<br />
<br />
Around the start of 1963 [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denys_Rayner Commander Denys Rayner], an established yacht designer (see [[Before Westerly]]), was approached by Hilary Scott, a man of some means, to design a GRP yacht to be built by a new company he wanted set up. Rayner designed the Westerly™ - a 22ft yacht similar in some respects to a wooden yacht he had designed earlier; the boat was subsequently renamed the Westerly 22™. After some discussion, Rayner became MD of the new company, whilst Scott and a solicitor called Michael Hurd became its non-executive directors. That company, founded in March 1963, was called "Westerly Marine Construction Ltd"™, the first of several companies to own the Westerly brand name, and usually referred to as just "Westerly" see<br />
[[A Brief Corporate History of Westerly]] Over the decades that Westerly in it's various incarnations dominated the UK leisure yachting industry they employed the best designers of the day including [http://www.johnbutlerassociates.co.uk/ John Butler], [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ian_Proctor#Yacht_designer Ian Proctor] , [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Laurent_Giles Jack Laurent Giles], Chris Hawkins, Mike Pocock, [http://www.duboisyachts.com/Design/About-Us/Team/Ed-Dubois/ Ed Dubois], and [http://www.ronhollanddesign.com/ Ron Holland]; and from beginning to end, Westerly established and maintained a reputation for their excellent GRP layup and strength of build.<br />
<br />
Read a comprehensive history of the company here: [[A Brief Corporate History of Westerly]]<br />
<br />
Pictures and Stories about life and times at Westerly Marine Construction Ltd here [[ Westerly Yard "Scrapbook"]]<br />
<br />
== Westerly Classes ==<br />
{| border="1" style="border-collapse: collapse; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: #000"<br />
|-<br />
!width="180"|Less than 26ft<br />
!width="180"|Less than 30ft<br />
!width="180"|Less than 35ft<br />
!width="180"|Less than 40ft<br />
!width="180"|Less than 50ft<br />
|-<br />
|[[Nimrod]] (L/F)||[[Centaur]] (B)||[[W30]] (T)||[[Falcon 35]] (B/F)||[[Oceanlord]] (F)<br />
|-<br />
|[[Jouster]] (L/F)||[[Chieftain]] (B)||[[Berwick]] (B)||[[Oceandream]] (B/F)||[[Ocean 43]] (F)<br />
|-<br />
|[[W21]] (B)||[[Griffon 26]] (B/F/L)||[[Longbow 31]] (F)||[[Oceanquest 35 AC]] (B/F)||[[Oceanmaster]] (F)<br />
|-<br />
|[[Warwick]] (B)||[[Griffon Club]] (B/F)||[[Pentland]] (B)||[[Oceanquest 35 CC]] (B/F)||[[Ocean 49]] (F)<br />
|-<br />
|[[Cirrus]] (F)||[[Griffon II]] (B/F/L)||[[Regatta 310]] (B/F)||[[Riviera 35]] (B/F)||[[W490]] (F)<br />
|-<br />
|[[Nomad]] (T)||[[Pembroke]] (F)||[[Renown 31]] (F)||[[Seahawk 35]] (B/F)||<br />
|-<br />
|[[Westerly 22]] (T)||[[Regatta 260]] (B/F)||[[Tempest 31]] (B/F)||[[W35]] (B/F)||<br />
|-<br />
|[[Kendal]] (F)||[[Spirit]] (B/F)||[[Fulmar]] (B/F/L)||[[Conway]] (F)||<br />
|-<br />
|[[Pageant 23]] (B)||[[Merlin 28]] (B/F)||[[Discus]] (B/F)||[[Conway MkII]] (B/F)||<br />
|-<br />
|[[GK24]] (F)||[[W28]] (F)||[[Fulmar 33]] (B/F)||[[Corsair 36]] (F)||<br />
|-<br />
|[[Tiger]] (F)||[[GK29]] (F)||[[Ocean 33]] (B/F)||[[Galway]] (B)||<br />
|-<br />
|[[W25]] (T)||[[Konsort]] (B/F/L)||[[Regatta 330]] (B/F)||[[Medway 36]] (F)||<br />
|-<br />
|[[Windrush]] (T)||[[Konsort Duo]] (B)||[[Storm 33]] (F)||[[Solway 36]] (B)||<br />
|-<br />
|||[[Merlin 29]] (B/F)||[[Storm Cruiser]] (B/F)||[[Ocean 37]] (F)||<br />
|-<br />
|||[[Regatta 290]](B/F)||[[W33]] (B/F)||[[Regatta 370]] (F)||<br />
|-<br />
|||||[[Falcon 34]] (B/F)||[[Typhoon 37]] (F)||<br />
|-<br />
|||||[[GK34]] (F)||[[Oceanranger]] (F)||<br />
|-<br />
|||||[[Seahawk 34]] (B/F)||[[Sealord 39]] (F)||<br />
|-<br />
|||||[[Vulcan 34]] (B/F)||[[Kestrel]] (F)||<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Key''' <br />
<br />
F - Fin Keel<br />
<br />
B - Bilge or Twin Fin<br />
<br />
L - Lifting Keel<br />
<br />
T - Triple Keel<br />
<br />
Original Westerly Brochures for many classes can be found here:[[Westerly Brochures]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==[[ Maintenance, Repair and Upgrades]]==<br />
<br />
General boat maintenance topics-<br />
<br />
Headlining, Varnish, Deck Paint, Hatch Slides.....<br />
<br />
==[[Westerly Brochures]]==<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Folders.jpg|none|500px| Brochures]]<br />
<br />
Westerly produced many brochures during the time they were in business. On this Wiki you will find about all the brochures Westerly have ever made *). Sometimes a model (for example the Chieftan) had different brochures that on first view look similar. The only difference could be as small as another printing date. To make this Wiki as complete as possible these brochures have also been uploaded. <br />
If you have a brochure or an advertisement that is not on this Wiki please send it to us. We will make it available on the Wiki. In particular we are looking for non-English brochures. Specially the Japanese brochure of the Riviera.<br />
<br />
*) The uploads will be completed around March 2019<br />
<br />
==[[Westerly Pricelists]]==<br />
<br />
<br />
Here you find the price lists of the past. If you have a price list that is not on this WIKI please sent it to use. We will make it available on the Wiki. <br />
*) The uploads will be completed around March 2019<br />
<br />
==Westerly Manuals==<br />
<br />
PDF copies of the original Westerly handbooks.<br />
<br />
[[File:WesterlyManual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Owners manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
== Yard Numbers, Sail Numbers, and Hull Numbers ==<br />
<br />
The '''Yard Number''' is the definitive way to identify a Westerly, because it is unique to each boat. It is the number on the plate in the hatchway. It consists of a letter then some numbers i.e. '''A 123'''. ~The very early Rayner designs used a system that is slightly different from that used on the Laurent Giles designs, and the very late models used a slightly different system again. <br />
<br />
There is a school of thought that the prefix letter originally indicated from which shed in Waterlooville the hull was made, but this isn't substantiated. What is known is that the system represents the specific model being built. The digits represent the number of that specific hull. The yard number is also found on cabin fixtures and fittings, written in pencil or wax crayon on the underside of removable wood panels such as locker lids. It has also been found on various parts such as skin fittings.<br />
<br />
The '''Sail Number''' is sometimes, but not always, a different number to the hull number. Some boats were registered internationally so weren't given class numbers (GK24s for example). Sail numbers were issued numerically and in series when orders were placed, but if orders were cancelled the next ordered Sail Number was issued to the next hull coming off the production line. As the hulls were coming off the production line in numerical order, the Sail Number issued to it was the next ordered and paid for Sail Number. In this way, Sail Numbers and Yard Numbers got jumbled up. A further complication to be added into the mix is that some designs used the same hull but different deck mouldings. In addition, it is known that some numbers were specifically requested by new purchasers, and Westerly granted those requests. And some numbers were just not issued - 666 being a good example. And, of course, over time sails are bought and sold, and it is not unknown to have Westerly's using a sail that was not supplied with the boat!<br />
<br />
The '''Hull Numbers''' were stamped into the moulding of the hull on the stern of the boat on either the port or starboard side near the top of the hull. It is linked to the Certificate of Hull Construction number issued by Lloyds Register of Shipping and is in the form '''ABC 123456'''. The vast majority were issued by the Southampton office, so start with SOU, and invariably the last 2 digits indicate the year the hull was laid up. There is an example of a 1977 Centaur Hull Number here: [http://www.westerly-owners.co.uk/westerlywiki/index.php?title=File:Hull_Number.jpg]. Early Centaurs (prior to 1973?....any advances on '73) do not appear to have this.<br />
<br />
If by chance your boat's Yard Number and Sail Number coincide, that is a rare occurrence on most Westerly's. Some did match - Corsairs for example, will match. More often than not the numbers do not coincide and because a Yard Number is 219 it does not mean that the Sail Number is 219. For example the Renown shares the same hull with the Pentland, and the very first Renown built R1 has a Yard Number of O (oscar) 036. The original author of this submission owned a Renown that had a sail number of R129 but a Yard Number of O (oscar) 243.<br />
<br />
==Buying and Selling a Westerly?==<br />
<br />
The best maintained Westerlys are sailed by members of The Westerly Owners Association:<br />
<br />
[https://westerly-owners.uk/boats-for-sale Westerly Owners Association "For Sale" pages here] <br />
<br />
[http://www.westerly-owners.info/images/f/f6/CENTAUR_PURCHASE_ADVICE.pdf Paul Shave's Article Buying a Centaur]. The most comprehensive and informed discussion of what to look for!<br />
<br />
==[[Racing a Westerly]]==<br />
Some information about handicaps.<br />
<br />
= Useful Resources =<br />
<br />
* [https://www.westerly-owners.co.uk/ Westerly Owners Association Web Site]<br />
<br />
* [https://www.westerly-owners.co.uk/groups/ The WOA Forum great for posting questions for anything not covered here]<br />
<br />
* Westerly's Today.[http://www.westerly-owners.co.uk/join-woa/ Join The Westerly Owners Association here:] and become a member of the Westerly Owners Association fleet.<br />
<br />
* Westerly Owners' Association [https://www.facebook.com/www.WesterlyOwnersAssociation/ Facebook Page]<br />
<br />
* The Westerly Story [https://westerly-owners.uk/books/ Get a copy of "The Westerly Story" here]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.westerlyclub.nl/ Westerly Club Nederland]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.boatus.com/boattech/howto_lib.htm Don Casey]<br />
<br />
* [https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Westerly-Owners/info Bob McFetridge's friendly Yahoo! group]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.cruiserswiki.org/wiki/World_Cruising_and_Sailing_Wiki World Cruising and Sailing Wiki - An On-Line Free Cruising Guide with useful links]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.brayyachtdesign.bc.ca/article_twinkeels.html The merits of twin keels]<br />
<br />
*[http://www.animatedknots.com/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com Animated knots]<br />
<br />
== Navigation and Pilotage ==<br />
* [http://saboa.webs.com/ Nav Info for Channel Isles and Northern France]<br />
<br />
==Guidance for Contributors==<br />
<br />
This is an open Wiki so anyone can contribute. Please open an account and log in using your real name. The basic syntax is simple so with a little reading through the Help under Navigation and/or the FAQ link below any one can enter material and edit text. For more complex layout editing some knowledge of a language such as HTML will help or you can email the Sysops and leave a request for support at westerlywiki@westerly-owners.co.uk. Contributors should endeavour to review the best available information on a topic and submit a digest of that information to the Wiki. Prime sources of information will include personal experience (preferred), magazines, the WOA Web site and discussion groups such as WOA and Yahoo. Material should not be lifted verbatim rather a digested version should be presented in the Wiki. There are generally several alternative approaches or opinions about any task and Wiki contributors should endeavour to identify these alternatives and provide hooks (follow on pages) to the alternatives. Even if the information is not available to the original contributor someone else can later add that information. Reprints of chatty Practical Boat Owner type articles are not recommended because this is not Wiki style. The "How I did it" article which is suitable for a magazine is generally just one view and the Wiki needs to recognise alternates.<br />
You should also add a Resources section where applicable providing links to suppliers web sites and a References section listing sources of material used in the compilation of the section.<br />
<br />
You can practise here in the [[Sandbox]]<br />
* [[Basic Wiki Editing]]<br />
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Editing_pages Editing pages]<br />
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Starting_a_new_page Starting a new page]<br />
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Formatting Formatting Headings, '''Bold text''' and other formatting]<br />
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Links Linking to other sites ]<br />
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Images Adding images]<br />
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Tables Using tables]</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=User:PacerMacGraw&diff=6120User:PacerMacGraw2019-03-06T14:04:12Z<p>PacerMacGraw: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Bi-fold doors on Pageant ==<br />
<br />
One of the jobs that I was keen to get done was to replace the tired washboards on my Westerly Pageant with bifold doors.<br />
<br />
[[File:Washboards.png]]<br />
<br />
They weren’t leaking but going in and out when the weather is wet the hatch has to be opened and as they slide up and the wood swells pushing up from inside they would often stick. Also the original ventilator was missing, replaced by gaffer tape.<br />
<br />
When inside with the washboards in place and the hatch slid closed, ventilating the boat and letting some light in would mean sliding the hatch back letting any rain into the main cabin. Plexi glass is an option but need storage and they do get scratched then there is storage of washboards when not in the hatchway. All in all not optimum.<br />
<br />
I decided to make the new doors out of 15mm marine ply with Utile facings and make them fit within the existing sliders as the hatch itself only slides so far and is designed to minimise water entry while the washboards are in situ.<br />
<br />
Also without adding extra depth to the outside Teak surround the hinges would have to be face mounted so with the doors inside the slide area if the doors are locked even if the hinges are removed the doors cannot be opened.<br />
<br />
Using the old washboards as a template I cut out a thin ply shape then did a final fit before committing the 15mm marine ply to the saw. Three vertical lines to give four sections were cut using a bandsaw<br />
<br />
<br />
Then the hinges fitted on the inside to test the fit.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsidePlain.png]]<br />
<br />
In this image the outside rain stoppers are in place covering the joins which are cut on a 35% angle away from the direction or water ingress and the barrel locks are in place which fix into the sliding canopy. These can be operated from outside and inside.<br />
<br />
I've tried to cover all the angles in the most elegant way and if there is existing infrastructure, use this as much as possible where it benefits the finished project.<br />
<br />
Next the covering strips of Utile where added and the whole thing given a sealing coat of epoxy resin and five coats of exterior varnish.<br />
<br />
Ventilators of stainless steel with a wire mesh insert to stop insects where added along with internal bottom bolts. <br />
<br />
You can probably see the small indentations added to accommodate the ventilator handles and bolt sliders so the doors would fold almost flat.<br />
<br />
Sometimes working with existing constraints ( the thickness of the marine ply having to match the original wash board sliders) these compromises are required.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsideFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
The doors can be opened nearly all the way with the canopy in place, just as I’d hoped.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsExternalOpenedFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
And the finished doors haven’t let a drop of rain in even during what seemed like our own tropical rain storms that overwhelmed our gutters at home. <br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsExternalClosedFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
So next: How to steam bend a new ceiling.</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=User_talk:PacerMacGraw&diff=6119User talk:PacerMacGraw2019-03-06T13:42:57Z<p>PacerMacGraw: </p>
<hr />
<div>Replacing Westerly Pageant Washboards with Bi-Fold doors: Be very happy to answer any questions and share dimensions etc</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=User_talk:PacerMacGraw&diff=6118User talk:PacerMacGraw2019-03-06T13:40:19Z<p>PacerMacGraw: Created page with "Be very happy to answer any questions and share dimensions etc"</p>
<hr />
<div>Be very happy to answer any questions and share dimensions etc</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=User:PacerMacGraw&diff=6117User:PacerMacGraw2019-03-06T13:39:06Z<p>PacerMacGraw: </p>
<hr />
<div>One of the jobs that I was keen to get done was to replace the tired washboards on my Westerly Pageant with bifold doors.<br />
<br />
[[File:Washboards.png]]<br />
<br />
They weren’t leaking but going in and out when the weather is wet the hatch has to be opened and as they slide up and the wood swells pushing up from inside they would often stick. Also the original ventilator was missing, replaced by gaffer tape.<br />
<br />
When inside with the washboards in place and the hatch slid closed, ventilating the boat and letting some light in would mean sliding the hatch back letting any rain into the main cabin. Plexi glass is an option but need storage and they do get scratched then there is storage of washboards when not in the hatchway. All in all not optimum.<br />
<br />
I decided to make the new doors out of 15mm marine ply with Utile facings and make them fit within the existing sliders as the hatch itself only slides so far and is designed to minimise water entry while the washboards are in situ.<br />
<br />
Also without adding extra depth to the outside Teak surround the hinges would have to be face mounted so with the doors inside the slide area if the doors are locked even if the hinges are removed the doors cannot be opened.<br />
<br />
Using the old washboards as a template I cut out a thin ply shape then did a final fit before committing the 15mm marine ply to the saw. Three vertical lines to give four sections were cut using a bandsaw<br />
<br />
<br />
Then the hinges fitted on the inside to test the fit.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsidePlain.png]]<br />
<br />
In this image the outside rain stoppers are in place covering the joins which are cut on a 35% angle away from the direction or water ingress and the barrel locks are in place which fix into the sliding canopy. These can be operated from outside and inside.<br />
<br />
I've tried to cover all the angles in the most elegant way and if there is existing infrastructure, use this as much as possible where it benefits the finished project.<br />
<br />
Next the covering strips of Utile where added and the whole thing given a sealing coat of epoxy resin and five coats of exterior varnish.<br />
<br />
Ventilators of stainless steel with a wire mesh insert to stop insects where added along with internal bottom bolts. <br />
<br />
You can probably see the small indentations added to accommodate the ventilator handles and bolt sliders so the doors would fold almost flat.<br />
<br />
Sometimes working with existing constraints ( the thickness of the marine ply having to match the original wash board sliders) these compromises are required.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsideFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
The doors can be opened nearly all the way with the canopy in place, just as I’d hoped.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsExternalOpenedFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
And the finished doors haven’t let a drop of rain in even during what seemed like our own tropical rain storms that overwhelmed our gutters at home. <br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsExternalClosedFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
So next: How to steam bend a new ceiling.</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=User:PacerMacGraw&diff=6116User:PacerMacGraw2019-03-06T13:38:27Z<p>PacerMacGraw: </p>
<hr />
<div>One of the jobs that I was keen to get done was to replace the tired washboards with bifold doors.<br />
<br />
[[File:Washboards.png]]<br />
<br />
They weren’t leaking but going in and out when the weather is wet the hatch has to be opened and as they slide up and the wood swells pushing up from inside they would often stick. Also the original ventilator was missing, replaced by gaffer tape.<br />
<br />
When inside with the washboards in place and the hatch slid closed, ventilating the boat and letting some light in would mean sliding the hatch back letting any rain into the main cabin. Plexi glass is an option but need storage and they do get scratched then there is storage of washboards when not in the hatchway. All in all not optimum.<br />
<br />
I decided to make the new doors out of 15mm marine ply with Utile facings and make them fit within the existing sliders as the hatch itself only slides so far and is designed to minimise water entry while the washboards are in situ.<br />
<br />
Also without adding extra depth to the outside Teak surround the hinges would have to be face mounted so with the doors inside the slide area if the doors are locked even if the hinges are removed the doors cannot be opened.<br />
<br />
Using the old washboards as a template I cut out a thin ply shape then did a final fit before committing the 15mm marine ply to the saw. Three vertical lines to give four sections were cut using a bandsaw<br />
<br />
<br />
Then the hinges fitted on the inside to test the fit.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsidePlain.png]]<br />
<br />
In this image the outside rain stoppers are in place covering the joins which are cut on a 35% angle away from the direction or water ingress and the barrel locks are in place which fix into the sliding canopy. These can be operated from outside and inside.<br />
<br />
I've tried to cover all the angles in the most elegant way and if there is existing infrastructure, use this as much as possible where it benefits the finished project.<br />
<br />
Next the covering strips of Utile where added and the whole thing given a sealing coat of epoxy resin and five coats of exterior varnish.<br />
<br />
Ventilators of stainless steel with a wire mesh insert to stop insects where added along with internal bottom bolts. <br />
<br />
You can probably see the small indentations added to accommodate the ventilator handles and bolt sliders so the doors would fold almost flat.<br />
<br />
Sometimes working with existing constraints ( the thickness of the marine ply having to match the original wash board sliders) these compromises are required.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsideFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
The doors can be opened nearly all the way with the canopy in place, just as I’d hoped.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsExternalOpenedFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
And the finished doors haven’t let a drop of rain in even during what seemed like our own tropical rain storms that overwhelmed our gutters at home. <br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsExternalClosedFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
So next: How to steam bend a new ceiling.</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=File:BiFoldDoorsExternalClosedFinished.png&diff=6115File:BiFoldDoorsExternalClosedFinished.png2019-03-06T13:31:29Z<p>PacerMacGraw: View from cockpit with doors closed and locked</p>
<hr />
<div>== Summary ==<br />
View from cockpit with doors closed and locked</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=User:PacerMacGraw&diff=6114User:PacerMacGraw2019-03-06T13:30:43Z<p>PacerMacGraw: </p>
<hr />
<div>One of the jobs that I was keen to get done was to replace the tired washboards with bifold doors.<br />
<br />
[[File:Washboards.png]]<br />
<br />
They weren’t leaking but going in and out when the weather is wet the hatch has to be opened and as they slide up and the wood swells pushing up from inside they would often stick. Also the original ventilator was missing, replaced by gaffer tape.<br />
<br />
When inside with the washboards in place and the hatch slid closed, ventilating the boat and letting some light in would mean sliding the hatch back letting any rain into the main cabin. Plexi glass is an option but need storage and they do get scratched then there is storage of washboards when not in the hatchway. All in all not optimum.<br />
<br />
I decided to make the new doors out of 15mm marine ply with Utile facings and make them fit within the existing sliders as the hatch itself only slides so far and is designed to minimise water entry while the washboards are in situ.<br />
<br />
Also without adding extra depth to the outside Teak surround the hinges would have to be face mounted so with the doors inside the slide area if the doors are locked even if the hinges are removed the doors cannot be opened.<br />
<br />
Using the old washboards as a template I cut out a thin ply shape then did a final fit before committing the 15mm marine ply to the saw. Three vertical lines to give four sections were cut using a bandsaw<br />
<br />
<br />
Then the hinges fitted on the inside to test the fit.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsidePlain.png]]<br />
<br />
In this image the outside rain stoppers are in place covering the joins which are cut on a 35% angle away from the direction or water ingress and the barrel locks are in place which fix into the sliding canopy. These can be operated from outside and inside.<br />
<br />
All this is so much like software design in that one tries to cover all the angles in the most elegant way and if there is existing infrastructure, use this as much as possible where it benefits the finished project.<br />
<br />
Next the covering strips of Utile where added and the whole thing given a sealing coat of epoxy resin and five coats of exterior varnish.<br />
<br />
Ventilators of stainless steel with a wire mesh insert to stop insects where added along with internal bottom bolts. You can probably see the small indentations added to accommodate the ventilator handles and bolt sliders so the doors would fold almost flat.<br />
<br />
Sometimes working with existing constraints ( the thickness of the marine ply having to match the original wash board sliders) these compromises are required.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsideFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
The doors can be opened nearly all the way with the canopy in place, just as I’d hoped.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsExternalOpenedFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
And the finished doors haven’t let a drop of rain in even during what seemed like our own tropical rain storms that overwhelmed our gutters at home. <br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsExternalClosedFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
So next: How to steam bend a new ceiling.</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=User:PacerMacGraw&diff=6113User:PacerMacGraw2019-03-06T13:28:06Z<p>PacerMacGraw: </p>
<hr />
<div>One of the jobs that I was keen to get done was to replace the tired washboards with bifold doors.<br />
<br />
[[File:Washboards.png]]<br />
<br />
They weren’t leaking but going in and out when the weather is wet the hatch has to be opened and as they slide up and the wood swells pushing up from inside they would often stick. Also the original ventilator was missing, replaced by gaffer tape.<br />
<br />
When inside with the washboards in place and the hatch slid closed, ventilating the boat and letting some light in would mean sliding the hatch back letting any rain into the main cabin. Plexi glass is an option but need storage and they do get scratched then there is storage of washboards when not in the hatchway. All in all not optimum.<br />
<br />
I decided to make the new doors out of 15mm marine ply with Utile facings and make them fit within the existing sliders as the hatch itself only slides so far and is designed to minimise water entry while the washboards are in situ.<br />
<br />
Also without adding extra depth to the outside Teak surround the hinges would have to be face mounted so with the doors inside the slide area if the doors are locked even if the hinges are removed the doors cannot be opened.<br />
<br />
Using the old washboards as a template I cut out a thin ply shape then did a final fit before committing the 15mm marine ply to the saw. Three vertical lines to give four sections were cut using a bandsaw<br />
<br />
<br />
Then the hinges fitted on the inside to test the fit.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsidePlain.png]]<br />
<br />
In this image the outside rain stoppers are in place covering the joins which are cut on a 35% angle away from the direction or water ingress and the barrel locks are in place which fix into the sliding canopy. These can be operated from outside and inside.<br />
<br />
All this is so much like software design in that one tries to cover all the angles in the most elegant way and if there is existing infrastructure, use this as much as possible where it benefits the finished project.<br />
<br />
Next the covering strips of Utile where added and the whole thing given a sealing coat of epoxy resin and five coats of exterior varnish.<br />
<br />
Ventilators of stainless steel with a wire mesh insert to stop insects where added along with internal bottom bolts. You can probably see the small indentations added to accommodate the ventilator handles and bolt sliders so the doors would fold almost flat.<br />
<br />
Sometimes working with existing constraints ( the thickness of the marine ply having to match the original wash board sliders) these compromises are required.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsideFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
The doors can be opened nearly all the way with the canopy in place, just as I’d hoped.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsExternalOpenedFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
And the finished doors haven’t let a drop of rain in even during what seemed like our own tropical rain storms that overwhelmed our gutters at home. <br />
<br />
[[File:Example.jpg]]<br />
<br />
So next: How to steam bend a new ceiling.</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=File:BiFoldDoorsExternalOpenedFinished.png&diff=6112File:BiFoldDoorsExternalOpenedFinished.png2019-03-06T13:27:01Z<p>PacerMacGraw: View from inside cabin with doors open</p>
<hr />
<div>== Summary ==<br />
View from inside cabin with doors open</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=User:PacerMacGraw&diff=6111User:PacerMacGraw2019-03-06T13:26:04Z<p>PacerMacGraw: </p>
<hr />
<div>One of the jobs that I was keen to get done was to replace the tired washboards with bifold doors.<br />
<br />
[[File:Washboards.png]]<br />
<br />
They weren’t leaking but going in and out when the weather is wet the hatch has to be opened and as they slide up and the wood swells pushing up from inside they would often stick. Also the original ventilator was missing, replaced by gaffer tape.<br />
<br />
When inside with the washboards in place and the hatch slid closed, ventilating the boat and letting some light in would mean sliding the hatch back letting any rain into the main cabin. Plexi glass is an option but need storage and they do get scratched then there is storage of washboards when not in the hatchway. All in all not optimum.<br />
<br />
I decided to make the new doors out of 15mm marine ply with Utile facings and make them fit within the existing sliders as the hatch itself only slides so far and is designed to minimise water entry while the washboards are in situ.<br />
<br />
Also without adding extra depth to the outside Teak surround the hinges would have to be face mounted so with the doors inside the slide area if the doors are locked even if the hinges are removed the doors cannot be opened.<br />
<br />
Using the old washboards as a template I cut out a thin ply shape then did a final fit before committing the 15mm marine ply to the saw. Three vertical lines to give four sections were cut using a bandsaw<br />
<br />
<br />
Then the hinges fitted on the inside to test the fit.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsidePlain.png]]<br />
<br />
In this image the outside rain stoppers are in place covering the joins which are cut on a 35% angle away from the direction or water ingress and the barrel locks are in place which fix into the sliding canopy. These can be operated from outside and inside.<br />
<br />
All this is so much like software design in that one tries to cover all the angles in the most elegant way and if there is existing infrastructure, use this as much as possible where it benefits the finished project.<br />
<br />
Next the covering strips of Utile where added and the whole thing given a sealing coat of epoxy resin and five coats of exterior varnish.<br />
<br />
Ventilators of stainless steel with a wire mesh insert to stop insects where added along with internal bottom bolts. You can probably see the small indentations added to accommodate the ventilator handles and bolt sliders so the doors would fold almost flat.<br />
<br />
Sometimes working with existing constraints ( the thickness of the marine ply having to match the original wash board sliders) these compromises are required.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsideFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
The doors can be opened nearly all the way with the canopy in place, just as I’d hoped.<br />
<br />
[[File:Example.jpg]]<br />
<br />
And the finished doors haven’t let a drop of rain in even during what seemed like our own tropical rain storms that overwhelmed our gutters at home. <br />
<br />
[[File:Example.jpg]]<br />
<br />
So next: How to steam bend a new ceiling.</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=File:BiFoldDoorsInsideFinished.png&diff=6110File:BiFoldDoorsInsideFinished.png2019-03-06T13:19:52Z<p>PacerMacGraw: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=User:PacerMacGraw&diff=6109User:PacerMacGraw2019-03-06T13:15:30Z<p>PacerMacGraw: </p>
<hr />
<div>One of the jobs that I was keen to get done was to replace the tired washboards with bifold doors.<br />
<br />
[[File:Washboards.png]]<br />
<br />
They weren’t leaking but going in and out when the weather is wet the hatch has to be opened and as they slide up and the wood swells pushing up from inside they would often stick. Also the original ventilator was missing, replaced by gaffer tape.<br />
<br />
When inside with the washboards in place and the hatch slid closed, ventilating the boat and letting some light in would mean sliding the hatch back letting any rain into the main cabin. Plexi glass is an option but need storage and they do get scratched then there is storage of washboards when not in the hatchway. All in all not optimum.<br />
<br />
I decided to make the new doors out of 15mm marine ply with Utile facings and make them fit within the existing sliders as the hatch itself only slides so far and is designed to minimise water entry while the washboards are in situ.<br />
<br />
Also without adding extra depth to the outside Teak surround the hinges would have to be face mounted so with the doors inside the slide area if the doors are locked even if the hinges are removed the doors cannot be opened.<br />
<br />
Using the old washboards as a template I cut out a thin ply shape then did a final fit before committing the 15mm marine ply to the saw. Three vertical lines to give four sections were cut using a bandsaw<br />
<br />
<br />
Then the hinges fitted on the inside to test the fit.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsidePlain.png]]<br />
<br />
In this image the outside rain stoppers are in place covering the joins which are cut on a 35% angle away from the direction or water ingress and the barrel locks are in place which fix into the sliding canopy. These can be operated from outside and inside.<br />
<br />
All this is so much like software design in that one tries to cover all the angles in the most elegant way and if there is existing infrastructure, use this as much as possible where it benefits the finished project.<br />
<br />
Next the covering strips of Utile where added and the whole thing given a sealing coat of epoxy resin and five coats of exterior varnish.<br />
<br />
Ventilators of stainless steel with a wire mesh insert to stop insects where added along with internal bottom bolts. You can probably see the small indentations added to accommodate the ventilator handles and bolt sliders so the doors would fold almost flat.<br />
<br />
Sometimes working with existing constraints ( the thickness of the marine ply having to match the original wash board sliders) these compromises are required.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsideFinished.png]]<br />
<br />
The doors can be opened nearly all the way with the canopy in place, just as I’d hoped.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
And the finished doors haven’t let a drop of rain in even during what seemed like our own tropical rain storms that overwhelmed our gutters at home. <br />
<br />
So next: How to steam bend a new ceiling.</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=User:PacerMacGraw&diff=6108User:PacerMacGraw2019-03-06T13:12:36Z<p>PacerMacGraw: </p>
<hr />
<div>One of the jobs that I was keen to get done was to replace the tired washboards with bifold doors.<br />
<br />
[[File:Washboards.png]]<br />
<br />
They weren’t leaking but going in and out when the weather is wet the hatch has to be opened and as they slide up and the wood swells pushing up from inside they would often stick. Also the original ventilator was missing, replaced by gaffer tape.<br />
<br />
When inside with the washboards in place and the hatch slid closed, ventilating the boat and letting some light in would mean sliding the hatch back letting any rain into the main cabin. Plexi glass is an option but need storage and they do get scratched then there is storage of washboards when not in the hatchway. All in all not optimum.<br />
<br />
I decided to make the new doors out of 15mm marine ply with Utile facings and make them fit within the existing sliders as the hatch itself only slides so far and is designed to minimise water entry while the washboards are in situ.<br />
<br />
Also without adding extra depth to the outside Teak surround the hinges would have to be face mounted so with the doors inside the slide area if the doors are locked even if the hinges are removed the doors cannot be opened.<br />
<br />
Using the old washboards as a template I cut out a thin ply shape then did a final fit before committing the 15mm marine ply to the saw. Three vertical lines to give four sections were cut using a bandsaw<br />
<br />
<br />
Then the hinges fitted on the inside to test the fit.<br />
<br />
[[File:BiFoldDoorsInsidePlain.png]]<br />
<br />
In this image the outside rain stoppers are in place covering the joins which are cut on a 35% angle away from the direction or water ingress and the barrel locks are in place which fix into the sliding canopy. These can be operated from outside and inside.<br />
<br />
All this is so much like software design in that one tries to cover all the angles in the most elegant way and if there is existing infrastructure, use this as much as possible where it benefits the finished project.<br />
<br />
Next the covering strips of Utile where added and the whole thing given a sealing coat of epoxy resin and five coats of exterior varnish.<br />
<br />
Ventilators of stainless steel with a wire mesh insert to stop insects where added along with internal bottom bolts. You can probably see the small indentations added to accommodate the ventilator handles and bolt sliders so the doors would fold almost flat.<br />
<br />
Sometimes working with existing constraints ( the thickness of the marine ply having to match the original wash board sliders) these compromises are required.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The doors can be opened nearly all the way with the canopy in place, just as I’d hoped.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
And the finished doors haven’t let a drop of rain in even during what seemed like our own tropical rain storms that overwhelmed our gutters at home. <br />
<br />
So next: How to steam bend a new ceiling.</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=File:BiFoldDoorsInsidePlain.png&diff=6107File:BiFoldDoorsInsidePlain.png2019-03-06T13:10:54Z<p>PacerMacGraw: Bi-Fold doors internal view before finishing</p>
<hr />
<div>== Summary ==<br />
Bi-Fold doors internal view before finishing</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=User:PacerMacGraw&diff=6106User:PacerMacGraw2019-03-06T13:07:27Z<p>PacerMacGraw: </p>
<hr />
<div>One of the jobs that I was keen to get done was to replace the tired washboards with bifold doors.<br />
<br />
[[File:Washboards.png]]<br />
<br />
They weren’t leaking but going in and out when the weather is wet the hatch has to be opened and as they slide up and the wood swells pushing up from inside they would often stick. Also the original ventilator was missing, replaced by gaffer tape.<br />
<br />
When inside with the washboards in place and the hatch slid closed, ventilating the boat and letting some light in would mean sliding the hatch back letting any rain into the main cabin. Plexi glass is an option but need storage and they do get scratched then there is storage of washboards when not in the hatchway. All in all not optimum.<br />
<br />
I decided to make the new doors out of 15mm marine ply with Utile facings and make them fit within the existing sliders as the hatch itself only slides so far and is designed to minimise water entry while the washboards are in situ.<br />
<br />
Also without adding extra depth to the outside Teak surround the hinges would have to be face mounted so with the doors inside the slide area if the doors are locked even if the hinges are removed the doors cannot be opened.<br />
<br />
Using the old washboards as a template I cut out a thin ply shape then did a final fit before committing the 15mm marine ply to the saw. Three vertical lines to give four sections were cut using a bandsaw<br />
<br />
<br />
Then the hinges fitted on the inside to test the fit.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
In this image the outside rain stoppers are in place covering the joins which are cut on a 35% angle away from the direction or water ingress and the barrel locks are in place which fix into the sliding canopy. These can be operated from outside and inside.<br />
<br />
All this is so much like software design in that one tries to cover all the angles in the most elegant way and if there is existing infrastructure, use this as much as possible where it benefits the finished project.<br />
<br />
Next the covering strips of Utile where added and the whole thing given a sealing coat of epoxy resin and five coats of exterior varnish.<br />
<br />
Ventilators of stainless steel with a wire mesh insert to stop insects where added along with internal bottom bolts. You can probably see the small indentations added to accommodate the ventilator handles and bolt sliders so the doors would fold almost flat.<br />
<br />
Sometimes working with existing constraints ( the thickness of the marine ply having to match the original wash board sliders) these compromises are required.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The doors can be opened nearly all the way with the canopy in place, just as I’d hoped.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
And the finished doors haven’t let a drop of rain in even during what seemed like our own tropical rain storms that overwhelmed our gutters at home. <br />
<br />
So next: How to steam bend a new ceiling.</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=File:Washboards.png&diff=6105File:Washboards.png2019-03-06T13:06:16Z<p>PacerMacGraw: Before conversion to Bi-Fold Doors</p>
<hr />
<div>== Summary ==<br />
Before conversion to Bi-Fold Doors</div>PacerMacGrawhttps://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=User:PacerMacGraw&diff=6104User:PacerMacGraw2019-03-06T13:04:53Z<p>PacerMacGraw: Created page with "One of the jobs that I was keen to get done was to replace the tired washboards with bifold doors. File:Example.jpg They weren’t leaking but going in and out when the..."</p>
<hr />
<div>One of the jobs that I was keen to get done was to replace the tired washboards with bifold doors.<br />
<br />
[[File:Example.jpg]]<br />
<br />
They weren’t leaking but going in and out when the weather is wet the hatch has to be opened and as they slide up and the wood swells pushing up from inside they would often stick. Also the original ventilator was missing, replaced by gaffer tape.<br />
<br />
When inside with the washboards in place and the hatch slid closed, ventilating the boat and letting some light in would mean sliding the hatch back letting any rain into the main cabin. Plexi glass is an option but need storage and they do get scratched then there is storage of washboards when not in the hatchway. All in all not optimum.<br />
<br />
I decided to make the new doors out of 15mm marine ply with Utile facings and make them fit within the existing sliders as the hatch itself only slides so far and is designed to minimise water entry while the washboards are in situ.<br />
<br />
Also without adding extra depth to the outside Teak surround the hinges would have to be face mounted so with the doors inside the slide area if the doors are locked even if the hinges are removed the doors cannot be opened.<br />
<br />
Using the old washboards as a template I cut out a thin ply shape then did a final fit before committing the 15mm marine ply to the saw. Three vertical lines to give four sections were cut using a bandsaw<br />
<br />
<br />
Then the hinges fitted on the inside to test the fit.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
In this image the outside rain stoppers are in place covering the joins which are cut on a 35% angle away from the direction or water ingress and the barrel locks are in place which fix into the sliding canopy. These can be operated from outside and inside.<br />
<br />
All this is so much like software design in that one tries to cover all the angles in the most elegant way and if there is existing infrastructure, use this as much as possible where it benefits the finished project.<br />
<br />
Next the covering strips of Utile where added and the whole thing given a sealing coat of epoxy resin and five coats of exterior varnish.<br />
<br />
Ventilators of stainless steel with a wire mesh insert to stop insects where added along with internal bottom bolts. You can probably see the small indentations added to accommodate the ventilator handles and bolt sliders so the doors would fold almost flat.<br />
<br />
Sometimes working with existing constraints ( the thickness of the marine ply having to match the original wash board sliders) these compromises are required.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The doors can be opened nearly all the way with the canopy in place, just as I’d hoped.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
And the finished doors haven’t let a drop of rain in even during what seemed like our own tropical rain storms that overwhelmed our gutters at home. <br />
<br />
So next: How to steam bend a new ceiling.</div>PacerMacGraw