Fulmar Maintenance and Repair

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Revision as of 19:51, 3 December 2014 by Flora1871 (talk | contribs) (Strengthening Fulmar Hull at Aft End of Keel)
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Strengthening Fulmar Hull at Aft End of Keel

Fulmars are known to have a weakness at the aft end of the keel rib. This may have been repaired by now and is not technically difficult for an owner to complete.

The way to check if a repair is needed, the boat needs to be out of the water, either dried out or in a cradle, but the weight of the boat must be on the keel. Sight along the hull either side of the aft end of the keel. If it looks as if there is any inward deflection of the hull around the keel, then it should be strengthened. In some cases cracks can be seen in the corners of the internal rib. Strengthening must be done with the boat afloat as it is in the correct shape. It involves removing all the floor in the main cabin aft of the table and grinding all the paint off the aft end of the internal keel rib. Three layers of 500gsm chop strand mat should be fixed to the vertical and horizontal surfaces of the rib. Do not lay over the top of the rib as this will raise the floor level. Epoxy should be used as it bonds better with old glass fibre than resin. The layers on to the hull should be feathered, easiest by tearing the mat, rather than cutting it. The top edge of the mat should be cut to lay up to the floor level. Try to make sure each recess in the rib is done as a single piece of mat as it makes the corners stronger. It is a good idea to move the bilge pump strum box further aft and seal the large hole cut through the rib for the hose to pass (the difference in level of the strum box will not affect the efficiency of the pump). Once finished the job should be flow coated and painted.


Lifting of Deck Area around Shroud Plates

There can be a small lifting in the deck area around the shroud plates. This can be checked with a straight edge and could be as much as 5mm. It has been caused by the original angles for the tie down bars being slightly out. If water has not enter and caused a leak, then it should not be a problem and can be left. To remedy any leakage and lifting is a major job as a large stainless pad about 300mm square and 5mm thick must be inserted under the deck, but will involve removing the mast, removing the internal under deck covering (either plywood or vinyl covered plywood panels), rebedding the shroud plates using the new stainless pad as a massive washer between the existing under deck fitting and the deck and having the tie down bars shortened by the thickness of the plate and the amount of the deck lifting.



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